The Amazon basin is a marvel of the world and the imagination, an ecosystem of unrivalled size and diversity, and a place of near mythical status among travellers. The Amazon River has more water than the next eight largest rivers combined, and is twice the area of India, and the basin spans eight countries.

It’s a life spring of the planet, the source of so much of the air, water and weather we all depend on. However, unreasonable travel expectations — like seeing jaguars around every bend — can be a recipe for disappointment. For all its size, the joys of the Amazon are mostly subtle: the ghostly roar of howler monkeys, the remarkable variety of plant life, the kindliness of riverside communities and the quiet but awesome power of the river itself. Here we focus on accessing the Amazon in Brazil.

When to go

May to June is a great time to visit, being midway between the rainiest months (February to April) and the hottest driest ones (September to November). It’s also when the water level in the Amazon River is highest and the surrounding forest is flooded. The Amazon rises and falls by an amazing 12 to 15 meters annually, and few experiences are more sublime, or uniquely Amazonian, than gliding silently in a canoe through the flooded forest. That said, the dry season is attractive for its clear weather and opportunities for long hikes.

Where to go

Manaus is the region’s largest city, and the quickest and easiest route into the jungle. You’ll find many good tour operators here, from budget to upscale. The flip side is that tours tend to be more crowded, and the surrounding area is less pristine.

Getting there

Manaus is serviced by direct flights from all over Brazil, and even Miami. You can also get there by boat from anywhere on the Amazon, including Belém and Porto Velho, but be prepared for a long trip (two to five days).

You can reach Tefé and Alter do Chão by air or by boat. For Tefé, most flights and boats connect through Manaus. For Alter do Chão, catch a plane or boat from Manaus or Belém to the city of Santarém, and take a bus or taxi from there (35km). Speedboats are available between Manaus and Tefé, and are faster than an ordinary boat but cheaper than a plane.

Amazon experiences

A common way to experience the Amazon is at a ‘jungle lodge’. Most lodges feature private rooms, family-style meals and daily excursions, but amenities such as en suite bathrooms and 24-hour electricity vary. Many lodges include a chance to sleep in the forest, whether just a night at an established camp or hiking for two or three days on a ‘survival tour’. Near Manaus, Amazon Antonio Jungle Tours and Amazon Gero Tours have good lodges and reasonable rates. Upscale options in the same area include Juma Lodge and Anavilhanas Lodge. And one of the best lodges in the entire Amazon is Uakari Lodge in Mamirauá Reserve.

Riverboats offer another way to see the Amazon — chugging along the river, stopping for excursions, sleeping on board. The boats vary in creature comforts, from hammocks to deluxe berths, and trips typically last five to 10 days. Reliable operators include Amazon Eco Adventures, Lo Peix and Amazon Brazil Jungle Tours.

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