The remote, rocky island of Vis has ended its years of isolation and the tourists it now welcomes seek a different, more authentic experience than elsewhere in Dalmatia. Yachters and Hollywood stars might mingle around the marina but you can easily find your own slice of paradise away from the clicking paparazzi. Secluded beaches, sunlit caves and succulent lobster make the longer crossing from Split well worth the occasionally choppy journey.

Tito’s Cave

Almost halfway to Italy, Vis has always been of significant strategic importance. It is also rocky and isolated – which is why World War II leader Tito chose one of its caves for his headquarters. For several months from November 1943, with the war still in the balance, Tito and his Partisans were holed up here, planning attacks and devising strategies. The site, though poorly maintained and signposted, can be visited, either as part of a tour group or individually. You’ll find it as you approach Mount Hum from Podšpilje (‘Under the Cave’), where steps lead from a sharp bend in the road. There’s little evidence of his presence nor of the visit of writer Evelyn Waugh in 1944.

Blue Grotto

If Vis has one particular tourist attraction, it’s Biševo. Set south-west of Komiža, an hour or so’s sail away, this sparsely inhabited island is invaded every day in summer between 11am and noon. The reason for such precise time-keeping in everyone’s otherwise mañana schedule is the natural phenomenon that occurs just as the sun is reaching its peak. Tourist boats plan their arrival at the mouth of the Blue Cave, Modra špilja, for good reason. At a certain moment, the grotto is flooded in blue light, everyone goes ‘wow!’ and some even dive in. It’s a sure-fire winner, and one that keeps the Komiža tourist agencies busy, arranging day tours that comprise lunch and an afternoon at the beach.

Barcrawl Škor

Few come to Vis for the nightlife – stay put in Split for that – but the Komiža should have just action to keep most barflies buzzing. Centrepieced by the landmark bar of the same name, Komiža’s hidden square of Škor tucked in behind the seafront is where to load up on a few drinks until the wee hours. Škor at No.11 will also show the football and probably spin the best tunes, but that varies from summer to summer. It’s also the only place with any kind of interior – everything else takes place across the interlapping terraces of three otherwise tiny venues.

See Vis from its highest point

Hiking tours can take you to the top of Mount Hum – or almost. The highest point on the island, just behind Komiža, Hum is 587 metres above sea level, its pristine, panoramic views precisely why there is a military installation up there. Just below, the Church of the Holy Spirit the perfect place to plot up and rest from your climbing exertions. All of Vis will be spread out below, as well as the sea and surrounding islands. It’s also possible to drive up there – but that’s cheating.

Kayak to the Green Cave

Conveniently set a few hundred metres from the south-eastern tip of Vis, the outcrop of Ravnik is a favourite destination for sea-kayakers. It’s not just the short distance or relative ease of crossing for beginners – like Biševo on the other side of Vis, Ravnik is home to a strange natural phenomenon involving its rock formation and the passage of the sun. At the southern edge of the islet, the Green Cave (Zelena špilja) is bathed in emerald-coloured light that floods through an opening in the top and spreads around the water. Sea kayak tours generally start here, then head round to secluded Stiniva Bay for beach time and a spot of lunch.

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